Front Brake Rotors, Wheel Hubs, and Jack Drews Axle Upgrade

Well, it's June and I'm finally back in the Man Cave. 
Wife Rhoda ordered this sign for over the garage door....  :-)

The new EBC brake rotors from TRF bolted to the front hubs with grade 8 bolts, lock washers, blue locktite, and 35 lb ft on the old torque wrench.

Here are parts for the front hubs:Timken wheel bearings, Chicago Rawhide (SKF) seals, and Mobil One wheel bearing grease

Installing the new bearing races in the hubs should be a walk in the park, right?....well ,almost.

The 6-Pack guys said to use the old races to tap in the new ones....ok, that was easy, but wait, when I trial fit a hub, something was wrong...the axle stub didn't seem to be long enough.  Ok, you sharp eyed folks see the problem right away, I only tapped the race down flush with the top of the hub ! ( Hey, I said I was a novice!)

Let's try this again.

 That looks better.

One small upgrade I made over stock was the SKF, a.k.a Chicago Rawhide, grease seal. The stock seal (on the left) is a felt type material that you need to soak with oil, while the modern seal uses a flexible lip to control the grease from flying around. Thanks to H.G. on the 6-Pack for this tip !

Here is the seal installed on the axle stub

The above photo has a spacer installed on the axle stub because this is part of the upgraded axle kit from "Uncle" Jack Drews. A set of shims is sent with the kit, and it is a trial and error method of fitting the hub and bearings against the spacer until you get the correct size shim. Bobby D has the complete "how to" for this upgrade on his excellent web site:  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/StubAxle.htm

By the way, the tab washers (above pix) were bent up against bolt heads before I buttoned things up!

It's pretty hard to tell a .004 shim from a .007 shim without a caliper! 

The axle upgrade requires 50 lb ft of torque be applied to the castle nut. If you have the correct shim in place, you can still spin the hub. In my case, .007 was the correct shim size.

The above photo gives an idea of how the bearings and axle spacer will live together. The .007 shim goes between the spacer and the outer bearing.

Packing the wheel bearings....my Dad showed me how to do this back in the early '60's and nothing has changed, except Dad didn't have cool gloves!

All buttoned up !  Please note: if you are using the stock axle stubs, you don't torque down the castle nut to 50 lb ft.  That is used only with the upgraded axles.  Check your shop manual for details. 

Here is a small item that I needed to find a replacement for....the plug that goes in a hole on the top of the lower wishbone. I only had one left, and this plug is used to keep rust/gunk out of the top portion of the wishbone...the lower portion has a stud that is used to hold on the spring pan. After some looking around at my local hardware, I came up with this solution:

These plugs are just about the right size, but first, I filled the cavity with wheel bearing grease....

Now the plugs go in ,and the excess grease gets wiped away.

The plugs could be a bit tighter fitting, but the next larger

size is too big.  I guess only time will tell if this works out ok, but it looks pretty good, and the grease will stop any rust from forming inside the cavity.

April Showers

I made some more progress during the first half of April.

Steering arms installed

Front shock absorbers installed

April 15th turned out to be not just tax day but out-patient surgery day for me. Doctor says all went well but  I'll need to stay out of the Man Cave for at least 3 weeks....SIGH !

March Forward...Just a Bit

 March weather provided some much needed relief, so I was able to get back in the Man Cave and continue putting the front suspension back together. I am using stock length springs, KYB gas shocks, and poly spring pads ordered from TSI.

Using my spring compressor to put the spring pan and front spring back together

Getting the spring pan to line up with the wish bone studs took a little fiddling !  In hindsight, I would have tried bolting the spring pan in place first, then install the spring.

Anytime you compress automotive suspension springs, extra care needs to be taken, so I spent the money and ordered the spring compressor that Moss Motors sells....it's designed to work with the coil springs on the TR6.

Both front coil springs are safely bolted in place.

Not Much Progress

January and February 2011 provided what I called an old fashioned NW Ohio winter....lots of snow and cold weather, just like I remembered growing up in the 50's and early 60's.
An uninsulated garage with a propane heater blasting away is not a comfortable environment to spend any amount of time wrenching on anything, let alone restoring a car, so not a lot of progress was made over the winter. I did however spend quite a bit of time reading old 6-Pack threads and studying the Bentley's manual in preparation for when the wrenchs would start turning again !

A Small Step Forward

January 2011

What a great way to start the new year...bolting things together for a change.

Here is a pic of my torque wrench on the upper fulcrum bracket...the first part fastened into place, and I didn't put it on backwards the first time!  YEAH !

 Last summer I ordered all new stainless steel fastners from MMS & Accessories, a husband and wife company in Rydal, GA. They do stainless steel fastner kits for GM, Mopar and Ford, plus TR6, MGB, and the older Datsun cars....notice how everything is packaged and labeled !

Here is a picture of the passenger side front suspension. The upper and lower wishbones are installed along with the vertical link, lower trunnion, and axle stub.

I'm using the upgraded Nylatron bushing kit from Good Parts. This kit includes the necessary grade 8 bolts needed for the critical suspension area. Richard Good is a Triumph guy with over 30 years experience working on these cars!

 The axle stub is an upgraded piece developed by "Uncle" Jack Drews during his days racing Triumphs...my plan is to incorporate all the upgrade pieces I can afford during this restoration.

Here is a before pic of one of the brass trunnions used on the front suspension. These polished up really nice...

 

One of the brass trunnions cleaned up and installed with 90wt gear oil per the Bentley's manual.  Like many a TR6, my trunnions were both full of grease instead of 90wt oil....seems mechanics not familiar with these cars see the zerk and pump in grease which doesn't give the brass proper lubrication. 

Yet Another Frame Issue !

December 2010

After having the trailing arm frame sections replaced, I thought my frame repair days were over...alas,it was not to be !

I knew about this "repair" from a collision  in Tillie's past, but I figured the repair was adequate and didn't give it much thought. The mounting area in the above pic is where the driver's side lower/rear wishbone bracket attaches to the frame (front suspension).  When I took that bracket off for cleaning, I noted it had a bunch of shims in place (used for the tire alignment), so I bagged and labeled the shims for use at re-installation time.

 Well, it's time to start mounting some of the suspension pieces and guess what, the bracket that bolts to the frame and holds the wishbone has bolts that are welded in place.  Once all the shims are added, the bolts aren't long enough for the nylock nuts to be securely fastened.

 A quick post on the 6-Pack forum confirmed what I was thinking...my frame needs to go to a frame / body shop for a correct repair which would eliminate the excessive shims used to mask the problem.
 Everytime I think I'm going over the top with this restoration, I think about this critical front suspension part being held on by just a few threads !  YIKES !
 
The body shop closest to my home is a place called Fairfield Collision which has been owned by Dave Wagener since 1980...no fly by night outfit ! When I called, I could tell Dave was not real interested in messing with an old Triumph frame, but he agreed to take a look. By now I was an expert at loading the frame in my truck, so within 20 minutes after hanging up the phone, I was backing into his shop. He was very relieved to see that I had a solid frame and called over his frame guy, Rick, to look at what could be done. Rick has been fixing frames for 40 years, so I was fairly comfortable that I'd come to the right place !

A week later I got a call that the work was done....no more Rube Goldberg repairs left in place !

 Thanks guys !

Road Trip !

November 2010

Since uncovering  the engine / thrust washer mess, I was concerned about the rest of the drive train... the gearbox and differential.  "Tillie" came from the factory with a plain 4 -speed gearbox, and the general consensus on the 6-Pack forum was that  the optional "J" type overdrive made life a lot sweeter when cruising down the highway. I normally watch eBay Motors for Triumph parts that I might be needing, and in late October, I found this auction...

Triumph TR6 'J' type overdrive transmission (LAYCOCK de Normanville). Entirely rebuilt, which means disassembled, cleaned, inspected and reassembled using new parts when necessary. New gaskets, seals, 'O' rings, bearings, top hat bushing, and synchros, including a countershaft hardened and ground to OEM specs and lengthened countershaft needle bearing for additional support in this critical area. This particular unit has a 28% reduction for 3rd and 4th gears. The requisite wiring harnesses, escutcheon assembly, and column switch for the TR6 application are included as shown in the photo. All are new. You will have to add an angle drive and speedometer cable; the shifter from your present transmission; and the clutch operating shaft, fork and throwout bearing, also from your present gearbox.  This transmission has been bench tested at 1200rpm. Residual overdrive pressure is 20 psi; operating pressure developed was 460psi.  Guaranteed 12 months.  Guarantee void if overdrive has been operated in reverse. No guarantee on electrical parts. I will work with you after the auction to insure the success of your installation.

This auction really interested me, so I posted a thread on the 6-Pack forum asking if anyone had heard of the seller,and I got several replies with good reports, so I jumped in with the "buy it now" money.  The seller turned out to be Ed Woods, from Glenshaw PA.  I was able to work a deal where he would refund the shipping cost that was built into the price if I would pick it up at his location, plus he would take my 4-speed box in on a trade.

The second part of this adventure clicked into place when I called Tom Spadafora at The Roadster Factory (TRF) in Armagh PA.  TRF not only sells parts for classic British cars but  also has a shop (C.A.R. Components) run by Tom that rebuilds things like the TR6 differential.  Some of the 6-Pack guys have done their own  diff rebuilds, but I'm already in over my head, so I decided to farm this work out to Tom.  By delivering my diff to TRF and the old gearbox to Ed , while also picking up the new OD box, the money saved in shipping costs would more than pay for my gas, plus Rhoda and I would have a fun trip.

 The old 4- speed gearbox and differential are ready to go .

I used a power cleaner on the diff before packing it up.

Looks like we're getting close !

Tom Spadafora was out of the shop when we arrived, but we meet Albert Runyan, the son of TRF founder and owner Charles Runyan.  This business is located on the Runyan family farm... part of the main office used to be a chicken coop !

Albert gave me a quick tour of the C.A.R. shop...very cool !

I told Ed Woods we would stop at his home to pick up the new gearbox on our way back from TRF, so he was waiting when we pulled into his driveway. Ours wives sat down to coffee and visited like they were long-lost friends while Ed and I unloaded the old gearbox and loaded up the new overdrive unit. It turned out that Ed is a dyed in the wool British sports car guy, and has been rebuilding gearboxes for years as a hobby. When I told him my Six wouldn't be on the road for at least 2 years and would he extend the warranty, he laughed and said sure no problem...one of his rebuilt trannys waited 15 years until it was actually used ! 

That's Ed on the left and me, a very happy camper !

The final piece of this saga occurred about 7 days later when my rebuilt differential arrived from TRF....life is good !  Tom at TRF is also a first class mechanic, and his rebuilds are top shelf !

Hidden Rust Problems on the Frame

October 2010
When I got my frame back from being stripped and cleaned, I checked over the metal with a critical eye and looked for problem areas. On the under side of the frame, where the trailing arms attach,  I found these small holes....

I figured I could weld a patch over the area and I'd be good to go....WRONG !   Fortunately, one of the 6-Pack guys was repairing his frame at the same time and revealed that these important sections of the frame have internal stiffeners to help support the rear suspension.  His stiffeners were nothing but a pile of rust, and as I viewed his thread pics, I got a bad feeling in my gut. Well, I couldn't just hope this was not a problem for me, I had to look for myself, and a few minutes with a metal cutting tool showed this....

Yep, my internal stiffeners were also a pile of rust !  Fortunately, new replacement sections are available, so I called "The Roadster Factory" a.k.a "TRF" and ordered a new section for each side of the car.

Notice the stiffeners built in the channel...these also double as guides for the bolts that hold the rear suspension / rear trailing arms to the car...pretty important !

I'd like to tell you that I removed the old sections and welded in the new ones, but this is too critical an area for a novice welder like me to be messing with, so the pro's at Mitch's Welding in Maumee, Ohio, were called on to do the job.

 Mitch's team did a super job !  Thanks guys, and thanks to 6-Pack member Mark P. who tipped me off about this problem !!

Stiffening the Differential Mounts on the Frame

One of the weak points of the TR6 frame is the area at the rear of the car that holds the differential and rear axles.  A previous owner of my car had the front diff  mounts reinforced, but Ted from TSI has a kit available to further strengthen this important area. Besides, this gave me a reason to buy another tool that I really need, namely a MIG welder !  I did a little welding with my Dad while growing up, but that was a long time ago, so practice and reading how- to books was in order.  Hind sight being 20/20, there are two things I wish I had learned before leaving high school....how to type and how to weld !!

Here are the front diff mounts that had been previously reinforced.

My new Hobart MIG welder...

Here is one of the rear stiffeners...gee, I guess welding over a plastic tarp wasn't such a great idea !  DUH !  Again, I don't know why I didn't do this welding before painting !

 Finally, the additional metal added to the front diff mounting area.

Frame Prep and Paint Time

Sept. 2010
It's late September, and that means cold weather is on the way. Since the Man Cave is not insulated  and has just a basic forced air propane heater, I need to get my newly cleaned parts prepped and coated with the POR-15 like now !

 After two coats.

Some of the smaller parts:

The frame after applying the POR Top Coat .

Eastwood makes a product that you can spray into the hidden channels of the frame, thus stopping rust from the inside out....too bad the Triumph factory didn't have some of these products available back in the day.  The joke amoung British car collectors is that these cars started rusting on the ship while being transported to the USA. !

Since this is my first rodeo as a car restorer, I'm learning the hard way about the sequence of doing things. (see the overspray above)