Body Shop Update

Back at the body shop, the tub has been up on a jig so John could get underneath it to finish up welding, cleaning up the welds, and getting it ready for paint.





 One important part of the pre-paint process was spraying Lizard Skin ceramic insulation on the floor (top and bottom) from the firewall back to, and including, the trunk area. The exhaust pipes run right under the passenger's floor area, and the Lizard Skin will keep the heat under control, in addition to helping with sound insulation and corrosion control. John also applied the Lizard Skin in the wheel wells and inside the fender panels.


The Lizard Skin dries to a flat black, so I asked John if he could make it shiny. He said sure, and he sprayed single stage black urethane paint over the "Skin". In the photo below, the top of the floor is  completed, and the yellow tape is covering the holes in preparation for spraying  from the bottom.  
  


Of course all the seams are sealed.



Here is the driver's side wheel well with the Lizard Skin applied and with the urethane paint coating.
This combination should look good and be easy to keep clean for a long time!


Finally, here's a sneak peek at a finished door...black paint so shiny and deep you can use it for a mirror.
I can't wait to see the finished car!

Progress Report

Things are starting to come together!  John, my body guy, is finished using the chassis as a template for the body fitting and has the body tub mounted on a jig for the final prep and painting.


Now I needed to bring the rolling chassis back home to get the engine and gearbox mounted in place.



 First on my to do list was to get the clutch installed on the engine, and an important step is installing the 3 dowel pins (in the face of the flywheel) that will align the clutch. In addition, the rear engine mounting plate has two dowels that will align the gear box.



The new Sachs clutch was part of the TRF "magic clutch kit"....all the parts you need for a new clutch installation.



The TRF kit includes a new Koyo throw out bearing, cross shaft, fork, and bushings. Following the advice of seasoned TR6 owners, I drilled the fork and shaft and added an additional bolt to supplement the safety wired pin that holds the fork/shaft together. 


Mating the gear box and engine together was a bit of a challenge, but a sling up to the rafter allowed me to position the gearbox so it went together with a satisfying click ! 


Ok, let's try and get this bad boy back on the chassis !



Ever so slowly lowering the engine back in place...


Lots of wiggling brought success !


Once the engine and gearbox were bolted down, I couldn't resist installing my Good Parts header. Because this header is coated with Jet Hot Coating, it should look this good for a long time !



Getting the drive shaft re-installed with new Neapco universal joints came next. 


I "roughed in " the exhaust system, marked the various pipes, then removed it, as the final installation will require having the body tub back in place.



John tells me he is painting the body tub and body panels, so this chassis will soon be going back to his body shop to have the body lowered back into place....stay tuned!

Time to Upgrade the Man Cave Floor

Before Tillie the TR6 came into my life, my garage was used to keep our daily driver car, motorcycle, lawn mower, snow-blower, etc, out of the weather. Over the years the concrete floor has taken a real beating with salt slush off the car in the winter, oil drops, and just plain wear and tear.


Well, now that the messy part of the TR6 restoration is done, and I've turned the garage into a man cave/shop, I began thinking about doing something with the floor. I needed to keep the cost under control, so having the floor removed and new concrete poured was not an option, plus the thought of moving everything into a storage unit for a month didn't sound like fun. Several years ago I looked at various floor coatings / coverings and ended up buying an inexpensive, rubber mat material that was interlocking for the worse half of the floor... Ok, but not what I really wanted for the long haul.


 An internet search turned up SnapLock Industries in Utah that makes interlocking modules out of polypropylene and markets them under the RaceDeck name. RaceDeck flooring is not affected by common automotive chemicals, like oil, brake fluid, grease, etc, and can support thousands of pounds of weight...just don't weld over it ! All this and it is 100% made in the USA and comes in 10 colors!  Several times a year, RaceDeck puts their flooring on sale and includes free shipping, so when their March sale notice arrived, I called them and pulled the trigger on enough flooring to cover my 16' X 16' floor....graphite in color with a black border and black edging. Four business days later, 7 boxes weighing about 250 lbs total arrived....glad I didn't have to pay the UPS cost for shipping !


The worst part of this project was getting all my "stuff"out the of  Man Cave! I cleared one side at a time then thoroughly cleaned the concrete with a broom and compressed air.


A close look at the tile underside shows the "male" peg and the "female" loop that snap together.


The underside of the tile is designed to hold over 5K lbs of rolling weight, yet allows  air to circulate... keeping mold and mildew from forming.



The tiles are 1/2" thick.



Since the flooring snaps together, the only tool you need is a rubber mallet to tap the tiles into place.


The directions tell you to start in a corner.


The boxes came with four tiles already snapped together, twelve deep.  



The "female" loops are to be pointed in the direction you are moving.



Covering up those nasty cracks!


Even the edges are made to support a lot of weight !




The finished product !  My wife thinks that the new floor gives a real boost to the whole property ! :-)

 

 
Now we're ready for Tillie's body tub when it returns from the body shop later this spring !

Big Engine News !

Valentines day 2012 provided more than just hugs and kisses from my sweet wife! Ted from TSI called and my "new" rebuilt '74 engine was sitting in his Pandora Ohio, shop... waiting for me to pick it up. A quick check of the schedule, and Friday February 17 was selected as "Pandora road trip day" !

The building that houses Ted' shop has been in his family since the early 1900's. Ted is slowly restoring the building to look like it did when he was growing up....a combination Pure gas station / Dodge & Plymouth dealership that was run by his dad. Very cool !




This GT6 door is hanging on the wall in the shop. Everyone should have their name on a race car door...even if it is a little "bent" !  :-)




Ted (the teacher), is in the foreground, explaining to me (the student) how to use a cordless drill to bring up oil pressure before firing up the engine. Ted provided me a VERY detailed sheet on how to prepare the engine for the initial run.



All tied down and ready for the trip back to Toledo. As we were heading back north on I-75, wife Rhoda was laughing because of all the guys who, when passing us, slowed down to eyeball my nice shiny engine !





Safely back home and in the man cave waiting for the chassis to come back from the body shop. For those who are wondering, here is a list of some of the "improvements"' done to this engine.
1. increased the compression ratio to 9.5:1
2. reground the cam to "S2" specs.
3. installed 20 thousandths oversized pistons
4. installed roller rockers
5. multi-angle valve grind
Of course, all the normal engine rebuild things like balancing, replacing rod & main bearings, replacing the oil pump, valves, seals, timing chain, etc., were also included in the rebuild. The machine shop Ted uses has been doing his work for 40 years, so they really know how to build a TR6 engine !




The one thing the machine shop couldn't do was rebuild the damper / pulley that attaches to the front of the crankshaft. So, the first thing I did when getting the engine home was pull the harmonic damper off the engine, pack it up, and send it off to "Damper Dudes" in California for rebuilding.


A Peek Into The Body Shop....Part III

Ya know those TV shows where a beat up car is "transformed" into a beauty in a week's time.....that only happens in TV land, because the real world is a whole 'nother critter!

Remember those nasty "B" pillars....yah, the ones full of rust holes. Well, take a look !
.

Slowly but surely, things are coming together.

It really makes me feel good seeing new metal where there used to be gaping holes !



The rings that hold the headlight buckets in place are part of the fenders, and you can no longer buy just the rings. Here is one of the things I love about this hobby... John told me, "Don't worry, I know a guy who can make new ones from scratch."
Here is a pix with the rings removed.

Sure enough... take a look below.  Using my old rusted rings as a template, this gentleman John knows fabricated new pieces from plain flat metal... same thickness as the original.  AMAZING !!

 Exactly the same in every dimension ! All John needs to do is weld the rings in place and drill the headlight bucket mounting holes.



John tells me the left side of the car just seems to come together without a lot of grief, but the right side is the problem child !
Here are some pixs of the little darling !  

 No, that's not rust you're seeing on the right rear quarter panel, but instead, a special hard primer that allows for a lot of block sanding without fear of going through to bare metal.

 Once John is satisfied with all the fitting, gaps, etc., this will all be taken apart (again) for paint.


I really appreciate that John is taking the time to "get it right", because 20 years from now the  money spent for first class body work will long be forgotten, but the car will still be a testament to his craftsmanship!