Spring 2014 Update

Well, spring has reluctantly come to NW Ohio, and with temps getting into the 50's and 60's, I've been venturing out to the man cave to start putting the door glass, latches, etc., back into Tillie.

It's been about 3 years since I pulled the doors apart, and even though I did take quite a few photos during the dis-assembly process, all those parts looked a bit intimidating!

 Side glass window regulator

Remote door latch release hardware

I did lube up the various springs, gears, and moving joints before installation.

An inside look at the door handle release (upper) and the key lock hardware (lower)...

6-Pack members have recommended putting pieces of insulation / sound deadener on the doors to eliminate some rattles / tinny sounds the doors can make (lower left).  

Making progress

There are several ways to assemble the door related hardware, and I read as much as I could before starting.  Of course the patches of insulation /sound deadener get applied to the inside of the doors first, followed by the channels the glass will slide in...front and rear of the door. I'm sorry I didn't get a photo of the channels before the installation, but the pix below give you an idea of the rear channel.

Ok, so far so good, but now comes the tough parts...dropping in the regulators and getting them semi-installed, followed by the glass. The regulator has 2 plastic studs that slide in channels attached to the glass, but they have to slide together while inside the door. This takes a lot wiggling of both parts. Once one stud slid into place, the second wasn't too bad. 

Well, I thought the tough part was over once I could roll the windows up and down...wrong.

Each window has two seals...the inside one has a fuzzy surface that slides against the glass, and the outer seal  acts like a squeegee against the outside of the glass. Each seal has 7 clips that hold them in place, for those of you who are counting, that's 28 clips. 

I took this photo with the clips in my palm to give an idea of the size...small !

The silver clip is for the outer seal and the black clip is for the inner seal.

Here is a pix of the inner and outer seals. The inner has the chrome strip. 

I found these locking suture devices from Harbor Freight a big help in positioning the clips to the door lips.

This "J" shaped tool was designed to remove vinyl house siding, but it was also a big help in pulling the clips secure. (Thanks to 6-Pack member Bobby D for this tip.)

I really struggled with the first outside seal...it just wouldn't come together. After some staring, the" light bulb came on"...the seven clip locations are pressed into the seal.

I decided removing the rubber in those 7 locations would allow the clips to slide on...voila!

During my pre-installation reading, I came across a web site called Britsport of Seattle. They have a section that addresses rebuilding TR6 doors. One of the tips I gleaned was to install the clips on the doors first. To do that for the outside seal requires laying a piece of tape on the door, holding the seal in place, then marking where the seven  indents are for clip location.

The final tip from the Britsport folks was to unbolt the rear glass channel and remove the two regulator stops... allowing the glass to be as low as possible in the door and loose enough to push off to the side.

Unbolting the channel

Remove this lower stop.

This stop is midway down the inside of the door.

I used  my tape roll to keep the glass pushed off to the side.

Getting the glass out of the way was a huge help in placing the clips correctly.

Whew, finally completed!

After the side glass struggles, for the windshield installation I decided to call in the professionals from Sonic Auto Glass in Toledo. I'm glad I did as those two guys spent well over an hourgetting the windshield glass correctly installed!

Coming up next...The Interior!

Winter 2014 Update

Well, you might be asking just what all I've gotten done on Tillie since my last post in late November...the answer is zip/zero/ nothing!  It's not because I'm losing interest in the ole girl, but my shop is not insulated or heated, and this winter here in NW Ohio has been rather brutal ! As I'm typing, we are just 1/2 inch  away from our all-time record for snow ( 73.1 in), and bitter cold has prevailed for most of January and February.

So, here are some photos to amuse / annoy you folks until I can get back into the man cave!

Rest assured, gentle reader, that Miss Tillie is resting comfortably during this difficult time!

A bright blue sky after a snow storm does make for a pretty picture.

Of course we can't forget about our friends the birds...a suet feeder for the woodpeckers and thistle seed mix for the finches and other small birds. The feeders also give an idea of how much snow awaits me!

This Simplicity snow blower has been the hero this winter!

My drive is approximately 125' long and 10' wide, so mister snow blower has really earned his keep!

The down side of Miss Tillie owning the garage is both of our daily drivers sit outside and need to be cleaned off after each snow fall.

Ok, enough of this whining about the weather...it's almost March, and soon spring will get here so work can resume on the LBC (Little British Car)  :-)

Tillie Gets Her Eyes / Headlights !

Before I start on the headlights, I want to bring closure to the previous blog concerning the fit of the TR6 hood (bonnet). Some of you may remember that I wasn't totally happy with the fit of the hood, especially the driver's side rear corner. I could not get that corner to be flush with the fender... it was about 2/16" high, no matter what I tried. A call to John my body guy was in order, since I knew he had the hood correct before taking it off for paint. We talked about the various adjustments I had tried, then he said, "Well, it needs to be twisted just a bit ,and here is how you do it".  I had visions of a pretzel-shaped hood and damaged paint, but I sucked it up and followed his instructions. I was amazed what a small piece of pine 2 X 4 wrapped in a rag, placed between the hood and the firewall, and some hand pressure could do! Gradually applying pressure to the high side "twisted" the hood enough so that the hood and fender are now flush without disturbing the rest of the fit !  The hood had been stored off the car for well over a year, and that must have caused the problem.

Thanks John !!

Ok, on to the headlamps. I couldn't install the headlights until the hood was done because the hood hinge bolts are in the area where the headlight buckets are installed.So,once the hood was complete, I was anxious to install and test the headlights. Tillie just didn't seem to have much personality without her "eyes".

The headlight wiring harness had been hanging loose for months, so part of the headlight "bucket" installation included threading the wires into the light housing and installing the 3 prong wire plug.

Once the bucket was in place, the light's adjusting housing was installed with two adjustment screws and attachment of the tension spring.

Now, Tillie is a special girl, so I want her to have "glamorous" eyes and provide me with with lots of light for night sorties. I went to head lamp guru Daniel Sterns' web site, Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy , to see what he had to offer. Daniel doesn't have a "shopping cart", so he likes to have either a voice conversation or an email exchange to ensure you're buying the correct parts and to confirm your wire harness is up to the task. After a somewhat detailed email exchange,we decided on these 7" Cibie head lamps.

The H4 lamps are purchased separately and you can chose between 65/55 W -DOT legal bulbs or the" not quite legal" 70/65 W(or more) off- road- only bulbs!  

Bulb installation is very straight forward...open the clamp,remove the temporary plastic filler, install the bulb, and clamp it back in place.

Install the rubber boot and plug it in

A ring and 3 screws secure the lamp to the adjustment housing.

Ah, that looks better!

I won't put on the outer covering rings until spring when I can properly adjust the lights. Daniel Sterns has a very detailed "how to aim" section on his web site.

This is not my first experience with Cibie head lamps. Back in the last century, 1971 to be exact, I had a new '71 Pontiac Firebird on which I had installed the same type of lamps. The only problem I encountered was getting stopped by the police...not for doing anything illegal but to ask me questions about those awesome headlights!    

Tillie Has a Birthday !

Yup, it's true, the ole girl turned 40 on November 1st, 2013 !  According to my British Motor Heritage record, she rolled down the assembly line November 1, 1973. To mark this milestone, I thought a blog update was in order. I asked wife, Rhoda, to bake her a cake, and she asked if there should also be candles and singing! (I'm still waiting for the cake :-)) To add to the festivities, here is a look at what's been happening since my last post.

After my initial engine break-in run, I had a list of items to accomplish....after the oil / filter change, I re-torqued the head bolts and adjusted the valves.

I had several small coolant leaks that needed attention.  Most were just a matter of tightening clamps, however, I did have to pull off the water pump and WP housing after I discovered I'd used the wrong gasket sealant !

 Another small leak was where the coolant return line connects to the water pump housing....it's a compression fitting  that I hadn't tightend enough.

The triple ZS carbs required a bit of "tweaking", and I'm sure I'll need to do some more adjusting, but the engine does now idle, something it wasn't doing earlier.

Taking a break from the engine, I decided to install the glove box. Several 6-Pack forum searches made it clear that the box was a tight fit with the stock wiring harness, and as I'm using the AAW (Advance Auto Wire) kit with its thicker wiring, a modification was in order. Since this is not a daily driver, a big roomy glove box is not something I felt was necessary, so out came the saw....

This is the original cardboard type box, but I was amazed at how tough it was to cut!

Since guys usually can't get into a Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Store with out a female escort :-), Rhoda took me there to purchase some canvas material to make a flexible  back section. It's not real pretty, but it is tough and will hold small miscellaneous papers, sunglasses, and a pair of string back driving gloves!

This flexible bag ,instead of the rigid box, will not cause any interference with the AAW wire harness.

Getting the gauges installed in the dash was a major milestone for me. Note that the cold air "eyeball vents" have been replaced with an additional gauge and a clock !

The oil temperature gauge is made here in the U.S. by Auto Meter. The angle ring makes it a bit easier to view.

An Auto Meter quartz clock gives the passenger something to monitor, and again the angle ring makes for easier viewing.

Once all the leaks were taken care, of I wanted to get the hood (bonnet) back on. Rhoda helped me get it out of the truck bed and onto the car with no paint damage, but I soon found out that was the easy part!

John, my body guy, told me to start with the hood high and forward  while first bolting on the hinges, then concentrate on making the hood square with the cowl next to the windshield. Next came getting the height adjusted at the front using the vertical adjustment of the hinges.  So far so good!


I used 6-Pack member Bobby D's method for mounting the hood latch....some grease on the plunger and tape on the latch to check alignment.

 A little adjustment on the plunger made it hit the tape dead center after this photo was taken.

Of course getting the hood release adjusted is critical, and since I'm not using the "prone to break" cable, my positive release lever installation was straight forward.

Ok ,you're thinking ,so what's the big deal about installing the hood...well ,gentle reader, getting the side gaps to look presentable consumed hours and hours of time!

 I called John, and he told me that the fenders needed to be adjusted in or out as needed to get an even gap once the hood was square with the cowl. There are approximately 12 bolts holding the fenders in place, and for the drivers side I needed to loosen all twelve, make my adjustment, tighten a few, close the hood, then repeat as needed.

The drivers side rear corner is still 1/16th inch high as I write this blog, and I don't know if it will ever be level...I've never battled so hard to achieve a 1/16th of an inch in my life :)! 

I originally hoped to drive Tille on her 40th birthday, but extra contracting work conspired against me, so it will be spring before I put her on the road. In the mean time, I'm enjoying the journey!